Darter Head Jigs
Tear Drop Jigs
Snaps / Swivels
Fishing rods have come a long way and manufacturers has been striving to
build lighter, more powerful yet sensitive rods for just about every
technique out there. Often times people wonder why there are so many
lengths and actions and even powers available in the market place but in
reality it is no different that golf clubs... for every shot there is a
club designed to do it and for fishing the same goes for the rods...
cranking, flipping, float fishing and even topwater all require a
different power, length and action...after all you wouldn't want to
drive with a putter and putt with a driver would ya?
Rod material ranges from fibreglass (heavy and not very responsive) to
graphite composites and finally graphite (Light, sensitive and strong).
There are several levels of graphite quality on the market and although
there is no true control as to quality the numbers have most commonly
been referred to as IM or Intermediate Modulus like IM6, IM7, IM8, IM9
and more recently like in the Shimano Cumara line IM10. The other is HM
or High Modulus.
Modulus is a term that describes the stiffness to weight ratio of the
graphite that’s used to create the rod blank. Here’s how it works….when
you cast a lure, the rod flexes with the weight of the lure, storing
energy as it flexes. When the motion of the rod stops, the rod flexes
and releases all of its stored energy to propel the lure. When you
increase the modulus of the graphite, you increase the ability of that
graphite to store and release energy. You also increase the speed that
the rod releases the stored energy. That in turn, increases the lure
speed that is generated in the cast. Increase the modulus and you
increase the reaction speed and power of the rod blank.
Below is a general example of modulus ratings using G Loomis classes:
GLX - 65 million modulus
IMX - 55 million modulus
GL3 - 47 million modulus (IM8)
GL2 - 42 million modulus (IM7)
IM6 - 38 million modulus
Standard Graphite - 33 million modulus
Since all graphite rod blanks are actually wrapped layers done on a
mandrel there is always a thicker side to the blank where the material
over laps or starts and ends and that is called a spline or "Backbone"
of the blank. This spline will determine the top side of the rod and be
used to gauge where the guides will be positioned. On all rods the
spline is on the top of the rod.. the difference is guide placement
between spinning and casting. Casting rods have their guides wrapped
directly onto the spline and spinning rods have them wrapped on the
underside... the reason for this is simple... the spline of the rod,
which is the strongest side, must always remain of the top side of the
flex when fighting under load since it is the natural bend of the rod...
if the guides are actually wrapped off of center the rod will twist
under load and show the misalignment... rods done like this are bound to
break since the weaker side of the blank is taking the abuse.
Understanding a blank's model number
Understanding the model number on the rod you have chosen will
help determine the power, action, length and even model with almost
every manufacturer. There are two different ways rod builders do this
and the first involves super simple short form letters and numbers that
tell you everything about the rod...
Actual Rod: Shimano Cumara Casting rod 7'2" Medium Heavy, Fast Action
Model Number: CUC72MHF
The other way model numbers are determined are by using the blank's
length in inches and Power by numbers.
Actual Rod: G Loomis Mossy Back Flipping, 7'5", Heavy, Fast Action
Model Number: BCFR854
The "85" is the rod's length in Inches (7'5") and the last number, "4"
relates to the power of the rod. With G Loomis their power chart runs
from 0 - 6, which correlates to Ultra Light to Extra Heavy.
Link to us.